Interesting trip Logs, Blogs, Notes, etc


Various and sundry useful links and information.  This page gets updated as occasion arises.

Cycle Analyst



Steintrike 

Steintrike Alignment

Here is the text that Robert sent me regarding adjusting toe in on the Wild One.

"First you need to find out which rod length has to be set to proper length. Unequally set rods will result in different turning circles to the left and right side. The simplest method is to turn the handlebar to the right side, all the way and if possible, measure the distance between the handlebar fastener and the rod on the LEFT side - there should be approximately 10mm distance between the tube and the rod. Turn the handlebar all the way to the left side (as far as it goes) and check the gap on the right side (again, at the center tube end and the rod. There should be the same distance, +/-1mm. If there is any significant difference, that means the wheels are not equally turning to the left and right side.

The larger gap indicates that the length of the tie rod on that side is shorter and that side might require adjustment to move the rear end of the wheel on that side toward outside, thus, reducing the front distance. You can also simply check that by simple measurement but this time (with handlebar perpendicular to the frame) at "reference height" between the center of the tire and the frame - measure both sides in the back of the wheels and confirm which of the wheels us pushing the front outside. On the side of the wheel which is more open in the front, release the rod end (M6 nut) at the handlebar, release the counter nut, turn the rod CCW by half of a turn, lock the counter nut, mount back the rod end to the central section on the handlebar, tighten it and roll the trike forward and back a bit, secure the trike from rolling away and repeat the measuring procedure.

This looks kind of messy, but once you do it, you'll find it relatively easy to do. Once you get the toe-in set up, you'll realize ot's not so complicated."

Alternative alignment

Tools: 
- string 
- 1 m (tape) ruler 
- 11 mm spanner 
- 13 mm spanner Instructions 

- Set handlebars straight, Use string to hold them parallel to the cross tube. 
- Loosen lock nuts on the left track rod. (One is a left-hand thread!) 
- Turn track rod until wheel is parallel with frame. (Measure from rim to frame on front and back of wheel) 
- Tighten lock nuts carefully. 
- Check that the wheel is still parallel to the frame. 
- Loosen lock nuts on other track rod. 
- Turn track rod until wheel is parallel with the left wheel. (Measure from rim to rim on front and back of wheels) 
- Tighten lock nuts carefully. 
- Check that the wheels are still parallel. 
- Acceptable error is between 0 - 2 mm closer at the front than the back.

Wildfire HPV

E-Trike

Motors

Front vs Rear

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26625

It's not a very hard choice to make; If you have a steel fork and you are getting a low powered kit, a front hub is easier and cheaper. If you don't have a steel fork or you think you might be interested in overvolting and other upgrades, then get a rear hub motor!

eZee

Locks/trackers/etc.

Tracker

Stand

Flags & light whip

Racks

Hitch Racks

Levers and quick clamps

Mounting hardware

DIY Solar Bike

DIY eBike

Videos, books, and such

Great video on bike touring with links from http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/.  Lots of other good information on the site with tips for packing, what to bring, equipment, etc.  Particularly interesting info on planning toward end of video.


Trips

Simuator

In planning this trip I've made use of a range simulator.

There are a number of useful packaged simulators on line.  I found these useful:

I've also done some work to build my own simulator based on these references using Google Maps to define a route:

Insert route, speed, ... in video

  • See Garmin Verb software.
  • Dashware: http://www.dashware.net/

Velomobile shells

Panniers

Fairing

Miscellaneous

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